Monday, June 24, 2013

Fresh Eyes

Obligatory homie-selfie
In less than 13 days, Robert has experienced and explored the many cities I have admired and adored. After landing in Ha Noi, we immediately hit up Ta Hien street for bia hoi. We took a day tour around Ha Long Bay and ended the day with street BBQ. We walked around Hoan Kiem Lake and biked around West Lake. We sleeper-bussed into Hue and ate every delectable treat Hue had to offer (minus "com hen" due to fear of stomach issues). We explored parts of Hue I never bothered to get to know without a fellow tourist. We rested and relaxed in Hoi An, knowing that Da Nang had a lot of sites to explore and family to visit. He perfected the art of crossing Vietnamese traffic by the time we reached Saigon (meaning walking with your head turned as the right time, with the sternest face possible). We took in the Western lights and life in Saigon, then took a long bus into Siem Reap, where we currently are. Throughout our journey, he became acquainted with the friends and family that became the home that he once provided for me in San Jose. Meanwhile, I tried to remain strong as I watched the cities and people I once considered home pass me by as I left for my next destination.

When I was worried about leaving Hue awhile ago, David suggested that it would be good that Robert would travel with me around Vietnam as I bid the homeland farewell. He would help me transition from one home to another by providing the sense of home that I usually feel with him, my best friend who helped me with my challenges in the States and abroad. Sure enough, he was right. Robert has not only been super supportive and reflective during this process, he has provided me with fresh eyes -- a perspective that I needed when I at times felt sad about leaving friends and family, or defeated by a country that still has me questioning how Vietnamese or American I need to be to feel welcome.

Robert is a special dude. I'm not just speaking in a biased sense. I mean that he's so "dac biet" that Vietnamese people can't figure him out. Vietnamese folks are used to experiencing three types of foreigners: white, black, or Asian. He's none of the above. So whenever we travel, he either flies under the radar as another foreigner, or stands out more than others because he's a type of American that people are not used to seeing. He's been "hello-ed" by random kids on the street; he's been asked to be in pictures at tourist sites; and he hasn't received any type of negative treatment -- besides getting ripped off. (He actually takes that as a compliment because he likes being the special foreigner.)

Perhaps what makes Robert's experience in Vietnam so pleasant is his open-mindedness, inquisitiveness, and general positivity. When I take him around, he's either quiet because he's taking in his surroundings, or asking questions about how things work. Whenever he would ask questions, I would provide the cultural or historical information I know that supports his observation, and he would add in what he knows from what he has learned from school or experience. In turn, I have learned more through his observations and knowledge, giving me a different perspective that leaves me wishing I had more time in each city.

Throughout this trip, I feel myself slowly letting go of the negative forces that have consumed me and led me to believe I was not welcome here. My mind has also opened up to different possibilities and circumstances that will lead me back to this side of the world at another point in my life beyond visiting family and friends. I have released the burden of pain that I've experienced from this year's challenges and heartbreak from having to "chia tay," and I feel lighter with love and happiness throughout my travels. All this, I owe to Robert.

Providing you with his perspective, here are some key pictures he took throughout our trip:
The majesty of Ha Long Bay
Facing Ha Noi traffic head on
Some of Hue's bests: bun bo (beef noodle soup) and nuoc mia (sugarcane juice)
R&R in Hoi An
Da Nang: our favorite city
Saigon night lights
We'll be in Siem Reap one more day, then we'll be in Phnom Penh the day after, then it's back to Saigon to wrap up our adventure!

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Live in the Moment

While walking along Lang Co Beach, my eyes followed the ripples that grooved from the sand to the waves hitting my feet. I took a deep breath and took in everything around me: the locals enjoying their one-hour slot of bearable sun, the sun slowly setting behind the light cloud and lush mountains, the lack of trash that is usually present at Thuan An Beach, and the company. Then I thought to myself, I will never have this again. The ripples in the sand will be in a different pattern, the water level will change, the trash may increase or decrease, and I will not be in the presence of all of the people present at the beach again.

In a different part of my life, I will not be able to partake in the same activities again, nor will landscapes maintain the same look and feel with way tourism is progressing in Vietnam. My Vietnamese skills will either deteriorate or strengthen, depending on the work I do back at home. Su and I won't be able to "chem gio" about the same stories while walking along the dragon bridge. Khoai and I will eventually be only two of many people who explore Da Nang at daring heights. I may never have the same relationships I have had with people in Vietnam, either because opportunities to meet are scarce, or because work will consume me once again.

When I think about these things, I don't think about them because I'm fatalistic or generally negative. I think about them to keep in mind the opportunities I presently have to live and love. If I were to believe that everything will be the same when I leave the country by the end of the month, I would be in need of a serious reality check. Hence, by the midway point of this journey, I promised myself that I would live in the moment, and take in everything I could without driving myself crazy. To fulfill that promise, I've journeyed through Southeast Asia with my mother, who had never traveled beyond South Vietnam. I've taken my sister and hey boyfriend on que huong food and site tours. I've engaged in a countrywide water fight during Songkran in Thailand. I've started dance parties with other Fulbrighters at random restaurants. I've sung "Va Toi Cung Yeu Em" the first day I taught an International Studies class when a student asked if I could sing a song for them to conclude my introduction. I've illegally driven with three people on my motorbike when the Hue rain prevented taxis from picking me, Jenelle, and Steven up. I've eaten things that I wouldn't dare repeat in words or in consumption. I've "Gangnam Styled" with my American Culture students during our last lecture. I've laughed my butt off, cried my heart out, and loved hard.

And I will continue to do so. Tomorrow, I will embark on an introduction / farewell tour with my best friend Robert (who's traveling outside of the States for the first time!) and my cousin Khoai. We will begin our exploration in Hanoi, and stop by Halong Bay, Hue, Hoi An, Da Nang, Saigon as well as Phnom Penh and Siem Reap in Cambodia. I will "gioi thieu" Robert and Khoai with all the places and people I have come to admire, and in the end, I will have to bid "hen gap lai" as well. However, keeping the end in mind, I will make sure to keep my head up and enjoy everyone's company as I always have, and save the sorrows and trips down memory lane for the 17-hour plane ride home.

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Being Vietnamese-American in Vietnam

The current ETAs were given a list of topics to choose from regarding tips they would like to provide for incoming ETAs. I immediately chose "Being Vietnamese-American." The following is a list I reflected upon and compiled, with the approval and edits provided by other Viet-Am ETAs.

Coming to Vietnam as a Vietnamese-American can be a complicated, emotional matter. On the one hand, we’ve been raised in the diverse community that America provides, somehow still feeling a lack of belonging in this country that our families set foot on a generation or two ago. On the other, we are the perpetual foreigner in a country our parents once considered their homeland. To help you as you journey through the land of your roots, here are some tips from past Vietnamese-American Fulbrighters:

1)    Balance family and work carefully: Whether this is your first or one of many visits to Vietnam, your itinerary will inevitably include visiting relatives. For some of us, our relatives lived on the other side of the country from our placement. In my case, my relatives were a 2.5-hour bus ride away, making it easy for me to visit my relatives every weekend if I wanted to. Either way, we had to recognize that we had to balance building relationships with our long-lost family with work and relationships in our province. Family can be a great support system, and yet it is also important to build a strong support system within your province, which may include your students, fellow staff members, local folks, or other ex-pats. 
My family in Da Nang
My homies in Hue
2)    Form your own perspective by balancing personal history and values with newfound knowledge: Many Vietnamese people left their homeland due to fear of what would happen to their future, and some have yet to return. Since childhood, we may have heard stories about our parents’ struggles and have formed a certain perspective about what Vietnam is like now.  However, almost 40 years since the reunification of the North and the South, relations have changed nationally and internationally. The North is no longer a place to fear, the South is no longer seen as home to a “U.S. puppet” government, and Bác Hồ has become an immortal image painted on billboards and drawn throughout comic books. Keep your mind open to learning about different perspectives on Vietnamese life now and in the past. (This would also include compromising progressive/American social-justice related views, as most provinces may at first seem outrageously traditional and patriarchal.) These viewpoints may differ with your own at first, but what’s important to take away is that these perspectives will grant you insight about the history and the culture in your province. You will be sure to learn a lot given that your conversational partner feels safe with you.
My graduating students, my American and Vietnamese regional culture teachers
3)    Engage in learning Vietnamese, especially the dialect within your province: Our Vietnamese skills ranges all across the spectrum; one of us was able to confidently hold a conversation in Vietnamese on the first day of orientation, while others grew up with little to no Vietnamese language exposure. Whatever background you have, the best way to learn about a culture is to learn the language, particularly the language of your province. I was placed in Huế, which is famously known throughout Vietnam to have the most difficult accent to understand. I initially struggled with daily interactions, especially since I had a stronger background in Hà Nội dialect from orientation and Sài Gòn dialect from American schooling. But after developing relationships with local folks and with the help of my Vietnamese teacher, I not only understood the Huế dialect a couple months in, but I was able to make jokes and translate English into the local language. In turn, my friends and students felt closer to me and more open to sharing their experiences and perspectives.
Thao, my Hue homie / Hue-speak teacher / sister from another mother
4)    Seek support and support yourself: We Vietnamese-Americans are more susceptible to something called the “Việt Kiều blues—“ where our problems seem to be derived from the fact that we hold this special double-identity. However, the best way to get over the blues is to process them with close friends. Perhaps even an even better way would be to process them with fellow Vietnamese-Americans, whether they are in the Fulbright program, are in Vietnam, or are from home, especially since the intersection of identities allows both parties to discuss struggles and solutions that have worked or may work for both. Also, find ways to support yourself. Even though you have Vietnamese roots, you can engage in Western activities guilt-free because you were raised in America. Have “Tây” days where you hang out at a fully enclosed coffee shop complete with back-supporting chairs and chest-level wooden tables. Video-chat with friends back at home in English. Find food that reminds you of home to help cure the homesickness. Do what you need to do to process and heal, because only then would you be able to fully engage in the community once again.
Rice paper wrap + rice vermicelli + bo vien + bo kho + tomato sauce + lettuce + hot sauce = Vietnamese burrito
5)    Recognize and embrace the double identity: We’re outsiders in our own country, and outsiders in Vietnam. Where the hell do we belong?! Our initial stage of excitement came crashing down when we realized that we weren’t Vietnamese enough to blend in with the locals, yet not American enough to be “oohed” and “awwed” over when ordering in Vietnamese at food stalls. (For example, a waitress at a café was unimpressed with my full-Vietnamese sentence requests in comparison to my British friend’s Vietnamese pronunciation of “cap-pu-chi-no.”) Indeed, non-Vietnamese foreigners will get more positive attention initially, but the novelty of the foreigners will soon wear down and the Việt Kiều blues will yield to patience and continual desire to learn about our “quê hương”. We as Vietnamese-Americans can connect with Vietnamese patrons through similar upbringing and cultural habits, and we have a more tuned tongue in learning the language. For those of us who often get called out for not looking the part, once we explain our role in the province and our background as a Vietnamese-American, we can open the doors to meaningful relationships, or just get them to stop singling us out. We may never stop being an outsider, but that in no way prevents us from learning from the locals as well as sharing our own experiences in a form of reciprocal education.
Reppin' Hue and Danang, my ques!
By all means, this is not a complete list of tips, but these are the words of advice that are most prominent in our minds at this point in time. If you have any questions or want to talk a problem through, we are more than willing to help out. Contact us! [...]

I haven't turned the list in yet, so if any other Vietnamese-Americans who have lived in Vietnam would like to add to the list, please comment! Thanks!