Where's the Meat?

During our last conversation, Robert (one of my best friends from San Jose) pointed out that I rarely talk about the details: What do I do? Where do I hang out? Who do I hang out with? How do I get around? What do I eat? How’s the weather? So on, and so on. Very good questions, and I will take on the challenge of answering them.

The awesome guy who inspired this update, and just inspires me in general. =)

This semester, I teach 8 groups under the English Department: 4 groups for American Culture, 4 groups for Speaking 1. In my American Culture class, I have an average of 70 students. In my Speaking class, I have an average of 40 students. I have prided in building relationships with my students as an elementary school teacher, and being able to remember everyone’s name after the second day. But with such a big group, remembering the names for all 440 students is a daunting task. I have been able to develop relationships with some of the students who like to ask me out to go eat, or hang out every now and then to practice English while I practice Vietnamese, or go around exploring Hue.

I taught two make-up American Culture classes on Vietnamese Womyn's Day (on a Saturday), and all of them came and gave me flowers as a class gift. They are adorable!

Outside of class, I hold an English Speaking Club for first year students in the International Studies Department. We met Monday and Tuesday nights, but since it’s voluntary, less people have been coming and now we’re switching to Tuesdays. It’s really nice being able to facilitate this group. Since I’m not responsible for their grades, we have a more relaxed environment where they are more likely to ask questions for clarification and be willing to make mistakes.

I also volunteer teach with Friends of Hue on Wednesdays and Thursdays, as mentioned in one of my previous posts. Currently, the assistant director Chi Dung and I are trying to work out how to develop a consistent curriculum where the students are not getting taught the same thing over and over again in case there are new volunteers who come into my position. Sure, back in America, I’ve been handed curriculum where I have standards and textbooks to work from. But here, I just have an intermediate grammar book that doesn’t match the students’ English level. This weekend is going to be a busy one.

On Wednesdays and Fridays, I take Vietnamese lessons with a fellow teacher in the International Studies Department, Phuc. We refer to my "Vietnamese Survival Book for Foreigners," which has been really helpful. She mostly helps me with my pronunciation and teaches me words that are not explained by the book. She also helps me put the lessons into context. For example, in our lesson about “Family Reunion,” we talked about our goals for the future, about having family, and about our personal lives. We used the words from the book, and she taught me more in case I need to know them for future conversations. I use these lessons to study on my own, as I write all the Vietnamese words into little books I use as my index cards, separated by parts of speech and phrases. Learning Vietnamese definitely puts into perspective the struggle my students have in learning English, a language they are barely able to practice outside of class.

Another important part of my schedule is working out. I HAVE to work out, or else I’ll go crazy. I have a gym membership at this snazzy hotel called the “Indochine” (not a name I agree with), which is where foreigners and locals go if they want access to cardio machines, weights, mats, a yoga ball, and air conditioning. I go three times a week – Monday, Thursday, and Saturday. I also have access to their beautiful pool, but I’m not really a big fan of swimming. I used to be a great swimmer when I was a kid, but once my vision got worse, I stopped swimming at the pool altogether. (Being out in open water, like the beach, I can do since I’m more motivated to enjoy the scenery.)

Outside of planning, teaching, and working out, I do a variety of things: hang out my ride-or-die homies Steven and Jenelle; bike around the town; reflect with Nhuanh at new cafés; videochat with Robert or Rabiah back at home; hang out with students; make new local friends; gather with my ex-pat and local NGO friends; karaoke; e-mail/message friends… the common theme with all these activities is that I am able to form meaningful connections with the people around me while learning more about Hue and Vietnam. Also, I have the time to reflect and relax, giving myself the quality time that I need to push my personal growth.

My ride-or-dies, Jenelle and Steven, on Halloween. I'm Kobe Bryant, Jenelle's wearing Halloween colors, and Steven is a beautiful womyn wearing my dress and cardigan.

As you might have seen in previous posts, I get around on the bicycle I borrowed from the university. It is a wonderful red, single speed bike that has a basket hanging over the handlebars, a backseat for the daring, and “martin” stickered on in shiny, rainbow colors along the body. I initially wanted a motorbike, but after reflecting on the risks and how much control I’d have on my bicycle over a motorbike, I chose to stick to “martin.” Also, with the rainy season, the flooding is more likely to ruin a motorbike; Hue citizens are often seen pushing their motorbike through a flooded area because the water gets into the exhaust pipe and puts it out of commission until you can take it to the shop.

The beautiful Minhchau modeling the motorbike poncho and how it should be properly worn -- beneath the helmet.

Speaking of the flooding season – it hasn’t happened yet! It’s supposed to be rainy season from October to February, but it’s December, and it’s hot and humid outside. (Blame it on global warming.) I initially feared the flood season, but it’s not so bad. On rainy days, everyone busts out their giant ponchos that cover them from their heads to their bike seat and basket, and they usually come out 80% dry. But I only had to use mine a handful of times. These past few days, I’ve been able to enjoy a nice cool evening breeze as I bike around town. I’ve been able to wear my Nike sweater (which friends and family at home know I love), so I’ve been a happy camper about the evening weather.

A beautiful day in Hue on the street perpendicular to my school. Here, two tiny boys are making their way home from school for lunch.

And last but not least – THE FOOD! I’m telling you – no matter where I go in Vietnam, the food is not as good as it is in Hue (unless it was made by my relatives). You have so many special dishes here: che (Vietnamese dessert), bun bo (Hue beef noodles), banh canh ca loc (handcut noodles in soup with snake-fish), com nieu (claypot rice), banh beo, banh loc, banh uot, bun thit nuong, nem lui – I could go on and on! (As you can see, my translations can’t keep up with all the food I’m thinking of.) Perhaps my favorite food is what I get at least every other day – banh mi trung ca (Vietnamese sandwich with egg and dried fish). It’s a good source of carbs and protein for the day, and when I get it nice and hot in the morning… mmm. I also often end my nights with che thap cam (che with everything), which has me going to bed with a huge smile on my face.

Oc (Snails) sauteed in bail and other wonderful goodness

However, since I feel that loss of control will lead to significant weight gain, I’ve been keeping a food journal to help me 1) track what I eat, 2) practice my Vietnamese writing skills, 3) know what I ate so I can go back there and eat it again! I write it all in this small book that fits into my wallet, so it can go everywhere with me. I would take a picture of it to show you, but my camera recently died in a battle against water. Water always wins in a battle against electronics. Get a reliable water bottle, folks, or else it’ll open up and spill all its contents in your purse, where you have your phone, camera, tissues, and all other goods that are incompatible with water.